Skip to content
AlternativeMed

Skin Moisturizing & Barrier Care

What natural oils, butters and moisturizers can and cannot do for the skin barrier, from FDA's skin-protectant rule and dermatology studies, with patch-test and allergy cautions.

Content last updated . This page has not been medically reviewed.

Safety first. Natural products can cause side effects and interact with medicines. Read natural ingredient safety before you use anything on this page.

"Natural" on a moisturizer tells you where an ingredient came from, not whether it protects the skin or is gentle on it. FDA says an ingredient's source does not determine its safety, and that many plants, organically grown or not, contain substances that may be toxic or allergenic. [1] This page lines up what the sources we read say about oils, butters and moisturizers. It is information, not advice for a skin condition. For eczema, infected, broken or worsening skin, see a clinician.

What the "skin barrier" and a moisturizer are

The NHS describes emollients (moisturizers) as treatments applied directly to the skin to soothe and hydrate it, and says they cover the skin with a protective film to trap in moisture. [2] The NHS also says everyday soaps, shampoos and shower gels usually dry out the skin and can make conditions like eczema worse. [2] The same source says emollients can be bought at a pharmacy without a prescription. [2]

What FDA's skin-protectant rule recognizes

In the United States, an over-the-counter "skin protectant" is regulated as a drug, and the rule lists the active ingredients allowed. [3]
Ingredient in the ruleAmount range the rule givesWhat to know
Colloidal oatmeal0.007 percent minimumSee Colloidal Oatmeal [3]
Cocoa butter50 to 100 percentSee Cocoa Butter [3]
Kaolin4 to 20 percentPowder labels carry a "broken skin" warning [3]
Lanolin12.5 to 50 percentAlso a documented contact allergen, see below [3][4]
Petrolatum30 to 100 percentListed alongside the plant-derived ingredients [3]

The rule also sets label warnings, for example "Stop use and ask a doctor if" the condition worsens or symptoms last more than 7 days. [3] The ingredient list we read did not name olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter or jojoba oil. That is a note about the list, not a verdict on those oils.

What research found about plant oils (separate from the rule)

Each result below applies to the oil and the people studied, and does not transfer to other oils.
QuestionWhat the source foundStrength of evidence
Does olive oil help the adult skin barrier?In a small randomized forearm study (19 adults, with and without atopic dermatitis), olive oil for 4 weeks caused a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and mild redness. [5] Sunflower seed oil preserved integrity and improved hydration in the same volunteers. [5]One small mechanistic study; evidence of harm for olive oil on the barrier
Do plant preparations help atopic dermatitis?A review of 51 randomized trials found individual herbal preparations showed promising results, and called for larger, better-designed studies. [6]Promising but limited
Does "complementary" treatment work for acne, eczema and psoriasis overall?A meta-analysis concluded there is insufficient evidence to support the efficacy and recommendation of complementary and alternative treatments for these conditions. [7]Insufficient evidence

The olive oil authors wrote that their findings challenge the unfounded belief that all natural oils are beneficial for the skin. [5] Their recommendation about olive oil for dry skin and infant massage was specific to that oil and that study. [5]

Proper evidence not found in the sources we read for shea butter, jojoba oil, argan oil or beeswax on the adult skin barrier. We searched PubMed for shea butter and jojoba topical skin evidence reviews and found no review to read. See Shea Butter and Jojoba Oil for what each page covers.

What FDA does and does not review

Cosmetic products and ingredients do not need FDA premarket approval, except color additives. [12] Companies carry the legal responsibility for safety. [12] A product claiming to treat or prevent disease is treated as a drug. [13]

When to ask a clinician or pharmacist

Persistent, recurrent or severe contact dermatitis symptoms are a reason to see a doctor, who can look for the cause. [14] Ask a pharmacist or clinician which moisturizer type suits a person, especially if prescribed creams are also used. For more on safe routines see Skin Care Basics, Skin and Hair Safety: When to See a Doctor, and Natural Skincare Claims Checked.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best natural moisturizer?

We found no source that ranks natural moisturizers, and this site does not rank products. FDA recognizes colloidal oatmeal, cocoa butter and kaolin among skin protectant ingredients, and a small trial found olive oil reduced barrier integrity while sunflower seed oil did not. [3][5]

Is a plant oil safer on skin than a regular moisturizer?

Not by source alone. FDA says an ingredient's source does not determine its safety. [1] In the one trial we read, a food oil harmed the barrier measures while another oil did not. [5]

Can I be allergic to a moisturizer I have used for years?

Yes. MedlinePlus says it is possible to tolerate a substance for years or even decades before developing an allergy. [8]

Does "hypoallergenic" mean it will not cause a reaction?

No. There is no federal standard or definition governing that term in the US. [9]

Are soaps a problem for the skin barrier?

The NHS says everyday soaps, shampoos and shower gels usually dry out the skin and can make eczema worse, and one study found all 37 soaps it tested were highly alkaline. [2][11]

More details: evidence, limits and cautions

The details behind this page: cautions, limits of the evidence and where sources disagree. Open any note to read it.

Safety: patch tests, allergy and fragrance
  • Allergy can appear after months or years. MedlinePlus says a first exposure does not cause an allergic reaction, and a person can tolerate a substance for years before developing an allergy. [8]
  • Lanolin, a common moisturizer ingredient, caused allergic reactions in 3.3 percent of 43,691 people patch tested by a North American dermatology group (people who were patch tested at dermatology clinics, so this is not a general-population rate). [4]
  • "Hypoallergenic", "fragrance-free" and "for sensitive skin" have no federal definition in the US. [9]
  • Fragrance may be listed only as "fragrance". [9] DermNet adds that a product listing "botanical", "herbal" or "natural" ingredients may contain an unidentified fragrance. [10]
  • Patch testing: see Patch Testing Natural Ingredients for what dermatology sources say, and Common Contact Allergens in "Natural" Products.
  • Do not use food oils or home mixtures on infected, broken or burned skin. The skin-protectant rule itself says not to use these products on deep or puncture wounds, animal bites or serious burns. [3]
  • Cleansers matter too. A study of 250 commercial cleansers found all 37 soaps were highly alkaline, and that normally acidic skin pH shifts to alkaline in atopic dermatitis. [11]
References
Education, not medical advice. This page is for general information. It does not diagnose or treat any condition and is not a substitute for care from a qualified health professional. Natural does not automatically mean safe. Ask a clinician or pharmacist before changing your care, especially if you take medication, are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have a health condition.